Umpire's Practical Wildlife Feces Cleanup Guide for Homeowners

Discovering bat guano in your attic, raccoon latrines in your crawlspace, or mouse droppings behind your appliances is unsettling. You may be worried about your family's health, unsure whether it's safe to enter the area, or wondering whether you can clean it up yourself. We get it—and we're here to help. Wildlife contamination is one of the most misunderstood home hazards because the danger is invisible: the spores, eggs, and viruses that cause serious illness can't be seen, smelled, or felt. This guide explains what you're dealing with in plain language, what you can safely handle yourself, and when to call a professional. You're not alone in this.

What to Do First

If you've just discovered wildlife droppings or suspect contamination in your home, here's where to start:

1. Don't panic. With the right approach, wildlife contamination is fully manageable.
2. Stay out of the area. Close the door, block off the space, and keep children and pets away. The contamination is far more dangerous when disturbed than when left undisturbed.
3. Do not sweep, vacuum, or dust. These actions launch invisible spores, eggs, and viral particles into the air, which is exactly how people get sick.
4. Address the wildlife entry point first. Cleanup before exclusion means re-contamination. A licensed wildlife control or pest control company should remove the animals and seal entry points before any cleanup begins.
5. Call for help. If you're unsure what type of contamination you have or how extensive it is, call us at 703-665-1129.

Table of Contents

1. Understanding Wildlife Contamination Types and Health Impacts
2. Identifying What Animal Left the Droppings
3. When You Can Clean It Yourself vs. When to Call a Professional
4. Preparing Your Home Before Cleanup
5. Safety Considerations and Required PPE
6. The Professional Cleanup Process
7. Treatment Products and Verification Testing
8. Contents, Insulation, and Structural Concerns
9. Heat Treatment and Why Raccoon Contamination Is Different
10. Prevention and Keeping Wildlife Out

Section 1: Understanding Wildlife Contamination Types and Health Impacts

Knowing what you're dealing with is the first step toward making safe decisions for your family. The three most common wildlife contaminations homeowners encounter—bat guano, raccoon feces, and mouse droppings—each carry different health risks. The PPE and cleanup protocols professionals use are specifically designed to protect against these hazards, and understanding why those protocols exist helps explain why DIY cleanup is rarely a safe option.

Bat Guano Contamination

Bat droppings contain Histoplasma capsulatum, a fungal spore that causes histoplasmosis, a serious lung infection. The spores are microscopic—you can't see them, and they become airborne the moment dried guano is disturbed. Infection happens by breathing them in.

• Symptoms: Fever, cough, chest pain, fatigue, muscle aches
• Severity range: Many healthy people experience mild symptoms or none at all; others develop chronic lung disease or, rarely, life-threatening disseminated infection
• Higher risk for: People with compromised immune systems, infants, elderly, and those with existing lung conditions
• Key hazard: Dried guano is more dangerous than fresh because dried material aerosolizes spores far more readily when disturbed

Raccoon Feces Contamination

Raccoon droppings contain Baylisascaris procyonis, a roundworm whose microscopic eggs cause severe and often permanent neurological damage if swallowed—even in trace amounts. The parasite migrates to the brain, eyes, and spinal cord.

• Symptoms: Seizures, vision loss, loss of coordination, coma
• Severity: There is no reliable cure once neurological symptoms appear. Treatment only works if started within the first 2-3 days after exposure, before the parasite reaches the brain
• Higher risk for: Children (who are most likely to put hands or objects in their mouth), but anyone can become infected
• Key hazard: Eggs survive in soil and porous materials for years and cannot be killed by any chemical disinfectant. Only sustained heat (143-160°F for several hours) eliminates them

Mouse and Rodent Droppings Contamination

Mouse droppings, urine, and nesting materials can contain hantavirus, which causes Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS), a severe respiratory illness. The virus becomes airborne when dried droppings or nesting material are disturbed.

• Symptoms: Fever, severe muscle aches (especially in thighs, hips, and back), headache, dizziness, nausea—progressing rapidly to severe difficulty breathing and fluid in the lungs
• Severity: HPS has approximately a 38% mortality rate even with hospital treatment. There is no specific cure or vaccine. Survival depends on getting to a hospital before respiratory failure
• Higher risk for: Anyone disturbing rodent droppings in enclosed spaces (attics, sheds, cabins, crawlspaces)
• Key hazard: Sweeping or vacuuming dried droppings without proper PPE is the most common way people are infected

The Common Thread

You cannot tell by looking whether a particular pile of droppings contains active pathogens. Spores, eggs, and viruses are microscopic. The cleanup approach assumes contamination is present and uses physical containment, proper PPE, and verified procedures to keep you safe. The danger doesn't come from the droppings sitting there—it comes from disturbing them without protection.

Section 2: Identifying What Animal Left the Droppings

Knowing what animal left the contamination determines the level of risk and the appropriate response. Here's how to identify the most common culprits without disturbing the material.

Bat Guano

• Size and shape: Roughly the size and shape of a grain of rice (about ¼ to ½ inch long)
• Texture: Crumbly when crushed, with a sparkly appearance from undigested insect parts
• Location: Typically in attics, often in concentrated piles directly below where bats roost
• Color: Dark brown to black
• Quantity clue: Even a small bat colony can produce large piles over months or years

Raccoon Feces

• Size and shape: Tubular, about 2-3 inches long and roughly the diameter of a dime
• Texture: Often contains visible undigested berries, seeds, or other food matter
• Location: Raccoons create "latrines"—designated bathroom areas where droppings accumulate. Common spots include attics, flat sections of roof, decks, woodpiles, and the bases of trees
• Color: Dark, often with visible food contents
• Key warning: Multiple droppings in one concentrated location strongly suggests a raccoon latrine

Mouse Droppings

• Size and shape: Small (1/8 to 1/4 inch), pointed at the ends
• Texture: Granular, scattered widely
• Location: Behind appliances, in cabinets and drawers, in pantries, along walls, in attics and basements—anywhere mice travel and nest
• Color: Black to dark brown when fresh, fading to gray as they age
• Quantity clue: A single mouse produces 50-75 droppings per day, so even a small infestation creates noticeable accumulation quickly

Rat Droppings

• Size and shape: Larger than mouse droppings (1/2 to 3/4 inch), with blunt or rounded ends
• Location: Similar to mice but typically in larger spaces—garages, sheds, crawlspaces, wall cavities

Squirrel Droppings

• Size and shape: Similar size to rat droppings but often lighter in color and more uniform
• Location: Almost always in attics
• Note: Squirrel droppings carry fewer documented zoonotic diseases than the contaminations above, but the cleanup approach is similar—do not disturb dried droppings without proper PPE

If you're not sure what you're looking at, take a photo from a safe distance and send it to us at help@umpiremitigation.com. We'll help you identify it.

Section 3: When You Can Clean It Yourself vs. When to Call a Professional

Honest guidance: most wildlife contamination situations are not appropriate for DIY cleanup. The reason isn't to drive business—it's that the equipment, PPE, and procedures required to safely handle these contaminants are genuinely beyond what's available at a hardware store.

Situations Where Professional Cleanup Is Strongly Recommended

Call immediately:

• Any bat guano accumulation in an attic, wall cavity, or living space
• Any raccoon feces or suspected raccoon latrine, anywhere on the property
• Mouse or rat droppings covering an area larger than a few square feet, or in attics and crawlspaces
• Any contamination accompanied by a strong odor, visible nesting material, or evidence of urine staining
• Any contamination in HVAC ductwork or near air handlers
• Any contamination that has been disturbed before you realized what it was
• Anyone in the household has a compromised immune system, respiratory condition, or is pregnant

Schedule a professional assessment:

• You suspect an active or recent infestation but aren't sure of the extent
• You're buying or selling a home and droppings were noted in inspection
• You're planning renovation, insulation work, or HVAC service in a contaminated area

Situations Where Limited DIY Cleanup May Be Reasonable

A small amount of fresh mouse droppings in a discrete area—say, a kitchen drawer or pantry shelf—can sometimes be handled at home if you follow strict precautions:

• Wear an N95 respirator (minimum), nitrile gloves, and clothes you can wash in hot water immediately afterward
• Do not sweep or vacuum. Spray the droppings thoroughly with a disinfectant (a bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water works) and let them sit for at least 5 minutes
• Use paper towels to wipe up the saturated droppings
• Place all materials in a sealed plastic bag, then in a second sealed bag, and dispose with regular trash
• Disinfect the entire surrounding surface
• Wash hands thoroughly and shower as soon as possible

Even for small areas, never attempt DIY cleanup of:

• Bat guano (histoplasmosis risk is too high)
• Raccoon feces (Baylisascaris risk is irreversible if exposed)
• Any contamination in enclosed spaces like attics or crawlspaces (poor ventilation concentrates airborne particles)
• Contamination involving nesting materials or urine staining (urine carries higher viral loads for hantavirus)

Why Hardware Store PPE Isn't Enough

Standard dust masks, painter's masks, and even most respirators sold at hardware stores do not filter at the level required for these contaminants. Professional cleanup requires P100 filters and full-face seal—not because we're being overly cautious, but because the particles in question are small enough to bypass lesser filtration. A respirator that doesn't seal properly to your face provides minimal protection regardless of its filter rating.

Section 4: Preparing Your Home Before Cleanup

Whether you're hiring a professional or handling a small DIY job, preparation matters. Done well, it speeds up the work, reduces cross-contamination, and protects the rest of your home.

Address Wildlife Removal First

Cleanup before exclusion is wasted money. If the animals are still entering, the contamination will return within weeks. The correct order is:

1. Wildlife removal: Hire a licensed wildlife control company to humanely remove animals. If you don't already have someone, we can connect you with a trusted partner.
2. Exclusion: Seal all entry points (gable vents, soffit gaps, roof penetrations, foundation cracks)
3. Cleanup: Remediate the contamination
4. Verification: Confirm cleanup completion

In Virginia, bat exclusion is restricted by state regulations protecting maternity colonies. Pest control companies typically schedule bat exclusion in late April through May or late August through September, outside the maternity season when flightless pups would be trapped inside.

Clear the Work Area

Before professionals arrive (or before you begin DIY work):

• Remove personal belongings from adjacent areas if possible
• Identify items in the contaminated zone that have personal value, so they can be evaluated for salvage rather than disposal
• Clear access pathways to the contaminated area
• Identify the closest exterior access for waste removal

Plan for Containment

Professional crews will set up containment barriers (typically heavy plastic sheeting with negative air pressure) to prevent contamination from spreading during work. You'll want to:

• Plan an alternate route through your home that avoids the work area
• Move pets to a separate part of the house or arrange off-site care
• Be prepared for some disruption—HVAC may need to be temporarily turned off in affected zones to prevent cross-contamination through ducts

Identify Vulnerable Household Members

Tell your remediation company if anyone in the home:

• Has asthma, COPD, or other respiratory conditions
• Has a compromised immune system (chemotherapy, organ transplant, HIV, autoimmune treatment)
• Is pregnant
• Is an infant or young child
• Is elderly with health concerns

This information may affect the work schedule, containment approach, or recommendations for temporarily relocating during cleanup.

Section 5: Safety Considerations and Required PPE

If you're hiring a professional, your safety responsibility is simply to stay out of the work area. If you're attempting any DIY cleanup of small areas, the PPE and safety steps below are the minimum—not optional.

Professional-Grade PPE (What Our Crews Wear)

For all wildlife contamination cleanup, our crews wear:

• Full-face respirator with P100 filters — provides the highest level of particulate filtration plus eye protection
• Disposable Tyvek suit with attached hood and booties — single-use coverall that gets bagged for disposal
• Chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile or rubber)
• Duct tape sealing gloves and booties to the suit — eliminates gaps where contaminated dust can enter

Half-face respirators, N95s, and dust masks are not adequate for this work. Facial hair that interferes with the respirator seal disqualifies a worker from the job—the seal is that important.

Why Full-Face Protection Matters

The contaminants we're dealing with—Histoplasma spores, Baylisascaris eggs, hantavirus particles—are small enough that anything less than a properly-fitted P100 respirator allows them through. Eye protection matters too: Baylisascaris eggs can infect through eye contact, and contaminated dust readily settles in eyes during work.

Critical Safety Rules During Any Cleanup

These rules apply to professional crews and DIY situations alike:

• No eating, drinking, or smoking in or near the contaminated area
• No touching your face or phone while wearing contaminated PPE
• Never dry sweep or dry vacuum dried droppings—always wet them down first
• Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water immediately after any contact with the area
• Remove contaminated clothing carefully and wash in hot water separately from other laundry, or dispose of it
• Shower as soon as possible after any work in the contaminated area

What to Do If You're Accidentally Exposed

If you realize you've disturbed wildlife droppings without proper protection:

For bat guano exposure:

• Wash hands and any exposed skin thoroughly
• Change clothes and shower
• Monitor for symptoms over the next 1-3 weeks (fever, cough, chest discomfort, fatigue)
• See a doctor if symptoms develop and mention possible bat guano exposure

For mouse/rodent droppings exposure:

• Wash hands and any exposed skin thoroughly
• Change clothes and shower
• Monitor for symptoms over the next 1-6 weeks (fever, severe muscle aches, headache, nausea)
• Go to the ER immediately if you develop these symptoms and mention rodent exposure—HPS progresses rapidly and survival depends on early treatment

For raccoon feces exposure—this is time-critical:

• Go to an emergency room within 24 hours, even if you have no symptoms
• Bring this guide or explain that you may have been exposed to Baylisascaris procyonis
• Treatment with antiparasitic medication only works if started within 2-3 days of exposure
• Once neurological symptoms appear (typically 2-4 weeks later), treatment is rarely effective
• Do not wait to see if symptoms develop

Section 6: The Professional Cleanup Process

Understanding what happens during professional cleanup helps you know what to expect and how to evaluate whether a contractor is doing the work properly.

Step 1: Initial Fogging

The work area is fogged with a hospital-grade botanical disinfectant (we use Benefect Decon 30) to knock down airborne contamination before any physical work begins. This step matters: it reduces the cloud of particles that gets stirred up the moment a crew member moves through the space.

Step 2: Wetting and Physical Removal

This is where the most contamination risk exists, and where proper technique matters most:

• All visible droppings are thoroughly saturated with water or disinfectant before any physical contact
• Material is hand-shoveled (never swept) into heavy-duty contractor bags
• HEPA vacuums equipped with true HEPA filtration capture remaining visible particles
• Bags are sealed immediately, double-bagged, and removed via the shortest exterior route

The wetting step is non-negotiable. Dry guano or droppings released into the air during shoveling can travel throughout an attic and beyond. Saturating the material weighs it down and prevents aerosolization.

Step 3: Chemical Treatment

After visible contamination is removed, all surfaces in the affected area receive chemical treatment. Depending on the surface, we may use Dot Extra Strength or Benefect Decon 30. The product is applied at correct dilution and given proper contact time according to label instructions.

Step 4: Final Disinfection

A final cold fog with Benefect Decon 30 throughout the entire affected area provides comprehensive surface disinfection and ensures any particles disturbed during cleanup are addressed.

Step 5: Verification Testing

When requested, we use ATP (adenosine triphosphate) testing with a Hygiena luminometer to verify that organic contamination has been effectively removed from surfaces. This involves swabbing surfaces before and after cleanup and measuring residual organic material in Relative Light Units (RLU). Readings at or below 500 RLU indicate a properly cleaned surface. If a surface fails, it gets re-cleaned and retested.

An important honest note about ATP testing: ATP measures organic material—it does not specifically test for Histoplasma spores, Baylisascaris eggs, hantavirus, or any other specific pathogen. A passing ATP reading means organic contamination has been effectively removed from the surface. It does not mean the surface is sterile, pathogen-free, or safe for a specific organism. If you want to know whether roundworm eggs, fungal spores, or viruses are present at any point—before or after cleaning—we recommend hiring an external specialist to test for the specific pathogen of concern. This applies to bat, mouse, and raccoon contamination alike.

Step 6: Documentation

Throughout the job, we document with photos in CompanyCam:

• Before and after photos of the contaminated area
• All ATP test readings
• Items flagged for disposal
• Equipment and PPE in use during the work

You receive this documentation as part of your project file.

Section 7: Treatment Products and Verification Testing

For homeowners evaluating contractors or curious about what's actually being used in their home, here are the professional-grade products used for wildlife contamination remediation.

Benefect Decon 30 (Disinfectant)

• Active ingredient: Thymol (a botanical compound derived from thyme oil)
• EPA Registration: #84683-3-74771
• Effective against: Bacteria, viruses (including hantavirus when used per label), fungi
• Why we use it: Effective disinfection without the harsh chemical residue or strong odor of traditional quaternary disinfectants. Safer for occupants returning to the space after treatment.
• Application: Cold fogging and direct surface application

Dot Extra Strength

• Formula: 2% Calcium Hypochlorite with NT7® Activator
• Effective against: Mold, fungi, bacteria, organic stains
• Why we use it: Powerful oxidizer that addresses both Histoplasma spores in bat guano and general microbial contamination. Lower odor than traditional chlorine products.
• Application: Professional-only product applied with proper PPE and dilution

HEPA Filtration Equipment

True HEPA filters capture 99.97% of particles 0.3 microns or larger. Wildlife contamination particles—including Histoplasma spores (2-4 microns) and Baylisascaris eggs (60-80 microns)—are well within HEPA capture range. Equipment used includes:

• HEPA-filtered vacuums for collecting visible material
• HEPA air scrubbers run during work to maintain cleaner air in containment

Hygiena ATP Testing System

• Device: EnSURE Touch luminometer with UltraSnap test devices
• Measurement: Relative Light Units (RLU)
• Pass threshold: ≤500 RLU on cleaned surfaces
• What it measures: Total organic material remaining on a surface (a proxy for cleaning effectiveness)
• What it doesn't measure: Specific pathogens. ATP does not test for Histoplasma spores, Baylisascaris eggs, hantavirus, or any other specific organism. For pathogen-specific testing on bat, mouse, or raccoon contamination, hire an external specialist.

What to Ask a Contractor About Products

If you're vetting a remediation company, reasonable questions include:

• What disinfectant do you use, and is it EPA-registered for the specific contamination I have?
• Do you use HEPA-filtered vacuums, and how often are filters replaced?
• Do you perform any verification testing after cleanup, and what are the pass criteria?
• Will I receive documentation of the work performed?

Section 8: Contents, Insulation, and Structural Concerns

Wildlife contamination often affects more than just the surfaces droppings are sitting on. Understanding what may need to be removed helps you prepare for the scope of cleanup.

Contents in the Contaminated Area

Items stored in or near contaminated zones may need to be evaluated:

• Items with droppings directly on them or nesting material in/on them: Generally must be disposed of
• Items in the contaminated zone but not directly soiled: Evaluated case by case—porous items like upholstered furniture, mattresses, or stored fabric items typically cannot be effectively decontaminated; sealed plastic containers and hard non-porous items may be salvageable with thorough surface cleaning
• Items of significant personal or monetary value: Always discussed with you before disposal—we never throw items out without authorization

For raccoon feces specifically: We recommend against saving items that have been contaminated, even sealed or hard-surfaced items. The reason is straightforward—Baylisascaris eggs are microscopic, persist for years, and cannot be reliably removed from surfaces by chemical disinfection alone. We assess each item individually and let you know what we believe can be safely saved and what should be disposed of, but our default recommendation for any raccoon-contaminated item is disposal in order to protect your health.

Insulation

Insulation in contaminated attics, crawlspaces, and wall cavities almost always needs to be removed and replaced. There are two reasons:

1. It can't be effectively decontaminated. Blown-in insulation absorbs urine and traps droppings between fibers in ways that can't be cleaned. Batt insulation has the same problem.
2. Removing it is the only way to verify the underlying surfaces are clean. Cleanup over contaminated insulation just covers the problem.

Insulation removal is typically a separate scope item that gets quoted alongside the cleanup. If your situation involves contaminated insulation, expect this to be part of the conversation.

HVAC Systems

If your contamination is in an attic with HVAC ducts running through it, or if there's any sign that contamination has entered the duct system, professional HVAC cleaning is typically recommended after the main cleanup is complete. Contaminated dust in ductwork will be redistributed throughout the home every time the system runs.

Structural Materials

Most structural framing (rafters, joists, sheathing) can be cleaned and disinfected effectively for bat guano and rodent contamination. For raccoon contamination, see Section 9—porous wood may harbor Baylisascaris eggs that survive surface cleaning.

Section 9: Heat Treatment and Why Raccoon Contamination Is Different

Raccoon feces contamination requires honest, separate treatment from other wildlife contamination because the science is different. We're saying this clearly so you can make an informed decision.

Why Chemical Disinfection Is Not Enough for Raccoon Feces

Baylisascaris procyonis eggs have a thick, layered shell that protects them against chemical disinfectants—including bleach, quaternary ammonium compounds, alcohol, and the disinfectants we use for other contamination. There is no household or commercial chemical that reliably kills these eggs. They survive in soil and porous materials for years, sometimes decades.

This is not a marketing concern—it's documented in CDC and veterinary parasitology literature. Chemical disinfection effectively addresses surface bacteria, but the eggs themselves persist.

What Heat Treatment Is

Structural heat treatment involves heating the affected space to 143-160°F and sustaining that temperature for several hours. This is the temperature range and duration documented to reliably destroy Baylisascaris eggs.

The treatment is performed by specialized contractors using industrial heaters and temperature monitoring throughout the structure. It's the same general technology used for bedbug treatment, applied with different temperature and duration targets for parasite control.

Our Honest Recommendation for Raccoon Contamination

If you have confirmed raccoon feces contamination, particularly in attics, crawlspaces, wall cavities, or anywhere insulation or porous materials are present, we strongly recommend:

1. Physical removal and chemical treatment first (our standard process) to address surface contamination and visible material
2. Structural heat treatment as a follow-up before any reconstruction work or before re-occupying the space

Heat treatment is performed by other specialized contractors—we'll refer you to companies we trust if you need it. We don't profit from the heat treatment recommendation; we make it because it's the only known way to fully eliminate Baylisascaris eggs from a structure.

What Happens If You Skip Heat Treatment

The risk depends on the situation:

• Areas behind sealed walls and ceilings that won't be disturbed pose lower ongoing risk if left in place
• Accessible areas like attic floors, crawlspaces, and storage spaces carry meaningful risk if eggs remain and someone—especially a child—later contacts the dust
• Areas slated for reconstruction or renovation carry significant risk because demolition will aerosolize eggs throughout the home

We'll talk through your specific situation so you can weigh the cost of heat treatment against the risk profile of your home and family.

Section 10: Prevention and Keeping Wildlife Out

The best wildlife contamination is the one that never happens. Here's how to keep your home unattractive to the animals that cause these problems.

General Prevention Principles

• Eliminate food sources: Secure trash cans, don't leave pet food outside, clean up bird seed spills, harvest fruit promptly
• Remove water sources: Fix leaks, clear gutters, eliminate standing water
• Reduce shelter: Trim tree limbs back at least 6-10 feet from your roofline, store firewood away from the house, keep crawlspace and attic vents in good repair

Bat Exclusion

Bats enter through gaps as small as 3/8 inch. Common entry points include:

• Gable vents with damaged or missing screening
• Gaps where soffits meet siding
• Loose roof flashing
• Chimney caps that have failed or are missing
• Spaces around attic fans

Sealing these requires careful timing. In Virginia, bat exclusion should occur in late April through May or late August through September to avoid trapping flightless pups inside during the maternity season (typically June through early August). A licensed pest control company familiar with Virginia bat regulations can perform exclusion correctly.

Raccoon Exclusion

Raccoons are large, strong, and persistent. They typically enter through:

• Damaged roof vents
• Loose or rotten fascia boards
• Uncapped chimneys (raccoons regularly nest in chimneys)
• Crawlspace access doors that don't latch securely
• Gaps under decks where they can establish ground-level den sites

A wildlife control professional can identify entry points and install hardware (chimney caps, vent covers, reinforced screening) that withstands raccoon strength.

Rodent Exclusion

Mice can enter through openings as small as 1/4 inch; rats through 1/2 inch. Look for:

• Gaps around utility penetrations (where pipes, wires, and cables enter the home)
• Spaces under exterior doors and garage doors
• Foundation cracks
• Damaged weep holes in brick veneer
• Open vent screens

Steel wool stuffed into small gaps and caulk or expanding foam over the top is an effective DIY measure for small openings. Larger gaps require hardware cloth or sheet metal.

Annual Inspection Checklist

Once a year—ideally in early fall before animals seek winter shelter—walk your property and check:

• Roof and roofline for damaged shingles, lifted flashing, or gaps

• All vents (gable, soffit, ridge, attic) for intact screening

• Chimney for proper cap and condition

• Foundation for cracks or gaps

• All exterior penetrations (utility lines, dryer vents, hose bibs) for intact seals

• Crawlspace access doors for secure closure

• Tree branches that have grown to overhang or contact the roof

• Exterior trash storage and pet food storage

• Garage and shed doors for gaps at the bottom

Catching small issues during inspection prevents the larger contamination problems this guide is about.

Contact Information

Call Umpire Mitigation at 703-665-1129 anytime with questions or to chat about how we can help you. We answer the phone with a real person, and we'll call you back in 5 minutes or less if we miss you. You can typically expect a team member at your home for an initial assessment within one to two days of calling.

Email: help@umpiremitigation.com

Home damage is hard. We're here to make this part easier.